Water is still sitting in the drum after the cycle ends. Before you buy a $90 pump, check these, cheapest first.
SAFETY FIRST: Unplug the washer. Put towels and a shallow pan down; there will be water.
STEP 1. The drain hose. Pull the washer out. Look for a kink behind it, and check the standpipe it drains into. A clogged house drain looks exactly like a broken washer.
STEP 2. The pump filter/coin trap (most front-loaders). There's usually a small door on the bottom front. Drain the water through the little hose, then unscrew the filter. Coins, bobby pins, and socks are the classic finds here. This is the fix about half the time.
STEP 3. Top-loaders: the lid switch. If the washer won't spin or drain with the lid closed, the lid switch or lock may have failed. Test it for continuity.
STEP 4. The pump. With power on and the filter cleared, run Drain/Spin and listen. A hum with no water moving means a jam or a seized pump. No sound at all means the pump or control isn't sending power. A pump part is commonly $30-90.
CALL A PRO IF: the error code points to the control board, or there's water under the machine during a fill (that can mean a leak or a flood risk).
Next week: fridge cold at the bottom, warm at the top (spoiler: it's often the defrost).
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