Your dryer tumbles but the clothes come out cold and damp. This is the most common dryer call there is, and you can usually fix it for less than $30 in parts.
SAFETY FIRST: Unplug the dryer. On a gas dryer, also shut off the gas valve behind it. Never work on a live 240V circuit.
STEP 0. Check the breaker (free, 2 minutes). An electric dryer runs on a 240V double breaker. If only one side trips, the drum still turns but the heater gets no power. Flip the breaker fully OFF, then back ON.
STEP 1. Clean the vent. A clogged vent makes the dryer overheat, and that blows the next part on this list. Pull the dryer out and check that the vent hose isn't crushed or full of lint. If you replace a part without fixing the vent, the new part will blow again.
STEP 2. Test the thermal fuse. It's usually on the blower housing or the exhaust duct. Set a multimeter to continuity/ohms. A good fuse reads close to 0 ohms; a blown one reads open (OL). Parts cost about $5-15.
STEP 3 (electric). Test the heating element: about 7-15 ohms is typical; OL means it's broken. Then test the high-limit thermostat, which should read near 0 ohms at room temperature.
STEP 3 (gas). Watch through the front access hole while it starts. If the igniter glows but never lights, the gas valve coils are the usual suspect. If it doesn't glow at all, test the igniter and the flame sensor.
CALL A PRO IF: you smell gas, there's scorching inside the cabinet, or the dryer is still under warranty.
Next week: washer won't drain.
Free. One email a week. Unsubscribe anytime.
Want all the steps with photos? Get the $19 appliance repair guides.